Fashion criticism is a rare art these days. Sure, influencers are everywhere, dissecting looks, setting trends, and pushing products with their brand of style, but the classic fashion critics – the ones with the power to elevate, diminish, or even shape the course of the industry – have a quieter, more discerning presence. Unlike today’s influencers who ride the viral wave of immediacy, fashion critics bring a deeper understanding to the table, one that spans history, culture, and artistry. They might not be as flashy as the latest TikTok star, but these experts shaped the fashion landscape with their meticulous eyes and unwavering opinions. And, if you know where to look, they’re still working today.
In an age dominated by fast-paced trends and soundbites, it's easy to confuse the role of a fashion critic with that of an influencer or viral taste-maker. The difference, however, lies in depth. Critics don't just share opinions on what looks good; they contextualize why something works, why it doesn’t, and what it means for fashion as a whole. They operate on a different level – one that requires expert knowledge, a nuanced understanding of the culture, and a deep respect for craftsmanship and design. While influencers might give their followers an instant guide to what’s hot, critics are often the ones to lay the groundwork for how we understand trends and where fashion is headed in the future. Here's a look at five critics who continue to push the boundaries of what we expect from fashion commentary.
1. Suzy Menkes
Suzy Menkes is practically a living legend in the fashion industry. As the former fashion editor for Vogue International, Menkes is widely recognized for her keen, often candid insights on fashion. Known for her sharp commentary and no-nonsense approach, Menkes covered the major runways and designers from Paris to Milan, making her one of the most respected voices in fashion criticism. Over her illustrious career, she’s chronicled the rise of key designers and movements, from the grunge revolution in the ‘90s to the current era of street style influence.
Currently, Menkes has transitioned into a role as a digital voice, with her Suzy Menkes’ Fashion Notes for Vogue.com and video reports on major fashion events. What sets her apart is her impeccable eye for detail and an ability to understand the cultural significance of fashion, rather than just its aesthetic. Her background as a journalist gives her writing a grounded, no-fluff quality, often calling out the underlying politics and social dynamics at play in a runway collection.
(She has also had the same iconic hairstyle every day, pretty much forever! talk abotu personal branding!)
2. Robin Givhan
Robin Givhan's name is synonymous with bold, thought-provoking fashion critique. A former fashion critic at The Washington Post, Givhan made history in 2006 as the first fashion journalist to win the Pulitzer Prize for criticism. Her writing goes beyond just discussing clothes – she takes a deep dive into how fashion intersects with politics, history, and society. Givhan is one of the few critics who consistently contextualizes fashion within a larger social framework, offering commentary on race, gender, and identity through the lens of style.
These days, Givhan continues to write for The Washington Post and offers commentary on global fashion and culture. Her influence is vast, as she consistently brings a voice of reason and clarity to an often over-saturated media landscape. Whether it's examining the fashion choices of political figures or dissecting the meaning behind a designer's collection, Givhan’s work is a masterclass in connecting the dots between culture and couture.
3. Virgine Mouzat
Virgine Mouzat is a French fashion journalist whose expertise lies in the intersection of luxury fashion and culture. As the fashion critic for Le Figaro, Mouzat’s writing has an intellectual quality, diving deep into the heritage of French fashion houses while also evaluating how these iconic brands are evolving in the modern era. Her work isn’t just about trends – it’s about the art and legacy behind them.
Mouzat’s credentials are as enviable as her critiques are precise. Over the years, she’s provided commentary on everything from the allure of haute couture to the changing nature of luxury in the digital age. Her recent focus has been on the business side of fashion, considering how brands are navigating the complexities of sustainability and tech in a changing industry. With a career that spans decades, Mouzat is one of the most authoritative figures in European fashion journalism.
4. Mandy Lee
While she might not have the decades-long career of some of her peers, Mandy Lee is a rising star in the world of fashion criticism. Founder of the popular fashion blog The Sundays, Lee offers insightful commentary on fashion trends and the cultural significance behind them. What sets Lee apart is her ability to break down complex concepts in a way that feels approachable yet intelligent. This approach helped her take off on tikotk and her career was born, the perfect example of a modern-day fashion critic, but NOT an influencer..
Lee's writing is particularly known for dissecting the socio-political ramifications of fashion, often weaving in themes of race, body image, and sustainability. Her Instagram and blog are essential stops for anyone wanting to understand how contemporary fashion relates to larger cultural movements. Lee is one of the new breed of critics who blend a deep understanding of the craft with the immediacy of digital platforms.
5. Mina Le
Mina Le is a critically acclaimed fashion writer who uses her platform to explore fashion's most intricate and often controversial aspects. As a contributor to Vogue, The Cut, and New York Magazine, Le’s work spans both critical analysis and cultural commentary. What makes her perspective unique is her ability to fuse high fashion with streetwear, dissecting how each category informs and influences the other in a constantly shifting landscape.
Le’s voice is essential in today's fashion world, offering fresh perspectives on what makes a collection truly stand out. She critiques with an academic level of precision while still maintaining an accessible tone, making her a favorite among both fashion insiders and everyday readers. If you're looking for nuanced commentary on the way fashion intersects with race, gender, and class, Le is an invaluable critic to follow.
If you like a podcast or youtube essay (we do) she has a great channel called 'High Brow' where she discusses niche topics at length, whilst you can go about your cleaning or cooking or whatever it is you need to do in the background.
The voices shaping the clothes we wear
For a welcomed change, the five influential critics we’ve highlighted are predominantly women – and this trend isn’t a coincidence. Historically, fashion criticism was a male-dominated arena, with prominent figures like Alexander Liberman and John Fairchild setting the tone for decades. However, the rise of powerful women like Menkes, Givhan, and Mouzat signals a shift in the industry. Fashion criticism has always been a battleground for cultural and social commentary, and it’s no surprise that women, often the subject of much of that discourse, are now at the forefront of shaping the conversation.
Fashion critics have long wielded power, sometimes to the point of destruction. Take, for instance, the case of Diana Vreeland, whose critiques could make or break a designer's career – her approval was the Holy Grail. Or the mysterious Fashion Critic pseudonym used by a certain influential critic in the '60s, who operated under a false identity, sparking a wave of speculation about the real identity behind the critiques. (Think - Lady Wistledown, but for fashion) These anecdotes remind us of the immense power that fashion critics once held, and in many cases, still do.
The Critic in the Digital Age
Fashion critics may not have the same visibility as influencers or viral voices, but they remain a crucial part of the fashion ecosystem. With their depth of knowledge, ability to interpret the broader context of fashion, and passion for detail, these critics provide a perspective that goes beyond mere aesthetic commentary. In an era of fleeting trends and attention-grabbing headlines, they serve as the steady hand that helps us understand the ‘why’ behind the ‘what.’ In opposition to the idea that the landscape has changed and fashion critics have gone extinct, I would argue that we actually need them more than ever. We just need to set aside the time to listen to them.
In a world where digital platforms have redefined how we consume fashion, the critics who have shaped the industry – especially those who led the way before the rise of social media – remain crucial figures to know. A fashion critic like Robin Givhan or Suzy Menkes is more than just a commentator; they are the architects of fashion history. And understanding their influence helps us navigate the ever-evolving world of fashion today.
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