We all saw Levi’s big news a few months ago – investment into AI models to ‘improve diversity’.
And we all saw the internets eruption into complaint too, why on earth would the use of AI be a better inclusivity solution for a huge brand than hiring diverse models. How could a brand with so many resources at their fingertips seem to miss the mark so wide when it comes to knowing what customers really want? What could AI in fashion be doing instead to make a huge difference? And actually.. Hear me out.. were we all too quick to dismiss Levi’s AI models?
Let’s try to work through this for some clarity.
What actually happened?
In March this year Levi released their new plans, in response to quick criticisms they share that their decision to use AI-generated models was in fact not a ‘means to advance diversity’ as suggested by so many like-chasing headlines on our feeds. They followed this up by saying;
“We are not scaling back our plans for live photo shoots, the use of live models, or our commitment to working with diverse models. Authentic storytelling has always been part of how we’ve connected with our fans, and human models and collaborators are core to that experience”
Why did they face backlash?
Well, to put it simply AI could be used for so many intelligent solutions. To put it to use to generate models seems a shame. Especially when a company is big enough to pay however many diverse models their little denim hearts could dream of, why replace real people with fake?
The idea of shopping clothes for people – without necessarily seeing them on a real person first feels pretty dystopian.
And AI is never really going to be a great representative, whatever information it used to learn will unavoidably follow patterns of human bias – because it’ll be information created by us! So what are the odds these models will have acne, scars, stretch marks, or any other elements of our natural forms that we already never see represented back to us. Just what will this AI model generator be basing its models on?
There have been warnings too that AI technology being used to generate BIPOC models boils down to a form of digital Blackface. Will these representations be co-opted or used by BIPOC individuals to share what they want to share – or just used full stop. By people who really have no right to?
It will prove very interesting to watch on and see who they choose to hire vs who they choose to generate.
What could AI be used for – if not drawing models out of thin air?
Honestly the options are endless.
Fitting assistance would be a number one use, if people of all different sizes and proportions could see how items would fit on themselves through AI generated models this would eb seriously useful.
Spotting trends, return rates, feedback and other data points could also be an incredible way to make choices around stock production and designs to minimise waste products.
And even from a creative perspective using AI can be of huge value for furthering interesting conversations – look at any of Nike’s AI designed shoes!
Levi’s itself have been utilising AI in some of these great ways for a while now, to optimise their e-commerce & shipping, and review their companies last 168 years of data to inform their future products. And that is pretty smart.
What was that I said about being too quick to dismiss AI models?
Whilst I wouldn’t exactly call an AI generated model win for inclusivity I would call it an interesting way to use technology. Conversations are started, representation will exist, and we will all get used to seeing more types of people represented.
My initial response was the thought of ‘oh no, another white tech bro profiting from generating models of colour?! Really?!’ but a simple google search told me that Lalaland.ai is a Black owned company, set up by Michael Musandu in 2019. The companies key aim is to “diversify the fashion industry and challenge the status quo when it comes to inclusivity, sustainability and innovation” as quoted on their own website. Already doesn’t what perspective shift the meaning of these AI generated models, and make the talking point much more interesting? As they were created by a man who never saw people like him represented in the images he saw around him, and decided to build them into his life.
They offer phot-realistic human models for brands ecommerce platforms, to allow brands to showcase their collections on diverse models. That does still come hand in hand with the issues mentioned before especially when said brand could afford real models – but imagine small brands with little to no budget for photoshoots – instead of having to hire one model for the day they could generate 20 and showcase their clothes on all the amazing people who could wear them!
And, despite the fact that shopping from an AI model may mean you never really saw the items on a person before buying – Lalaland.ai has also significantly reduced return rates in the cases where their models have been used.
Still I wish that we were talking about real people earning real money, getting real jobs and promotions and having their own lives tangibly improved. But I don’t think we have to look a this in black and white.
It’s not a perfect solution, but whilst the slow and heavy beast of the fashion industry gets it’s shit together this is a small, accessible and interesting ways for AI to play a role in pushing the inclusivity conversation forwards.
Even if nothing more than a stepping stone, it’s still potentially a small step forwards.
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